![]() ![]() Meanwhile, the leader has put herself on belay on both strands of the ropes-on the backside of her own clove on the red rope (above the first follower) and on the backside of the clove that the first follower built on the orange rope. The free end is hanging (with its figure-8 still in the rope) against the cliff. He puts a third-hand backup on the rope below his rappel device, double-checks himself, asks the leader to do the same, and then he can untie on the orange rope. While the leader belays the second follower (left in photo, black top), the first follower puts an extension on his harness and puts himself on rappel on the backside of the leader’s clove on the red rope. ![]() When the first follower arrives, he secures himself by cloving in on his trail (orange) rope. This is page 118 from The Mountain Guide Manual, in the “Transitions” chapter, in the section describing “Three People, Two Ropes, Using Caterpillar Technique (Speed Technique*).” I added the text boxes to reiterate the context - the leader (gray t-shirt, black tights, right in the photo) arrives and belays the first follower (green shirt) on the red rope. At this point his full weight comes onto the strand to which he’s tied. With most ropes and devices, this seems to work – but aikibujin was monkeying with this technique and decided to test out the scenario in which the first rappeller, still tied into his end of the rope (because he was the leader of the last pitch), descends both strands of the rope, but then accidentally rappels off the unknotted strand. It’s this idea that a pre-rigged device definitively fixes both strands of the rope at the anchor that requires more thought. It can’t slide one direction of another, which means only one stopper knot is needed at the ends of the ropes to the prevent first rappeller from going off the end.” First, because the second rappeller ’s device is pre-rigged on the rope, the rope is locked into the rappel anchor. We describe the technique in question on page 110:Īnother strength of the new system is that the leader, by going first as suggested, never unties from the end of the rope. ![]() To experience this in the field, it would have to be a series of improbable “ifs,” but you’ve probably read enough accident reports to realize … that’s exactly how a climbing disaster can occur: a series of unlikely glitches and errors, compounding into carnage.Īnd who likes carnage, except in John Wick films and Supreme Court confirmation hearings? Thanks to my buddy aikibujin (MP handle), Marc and I have learned about a very unlikely, but potential failure mode in one of our systems in The Mountain Guide Manual. I’m being a diva, OK, I’ll shut up and get to the point. Especially in the time of COVID, any obsessed mountain guide can lock herself away and pick your techniques, photographs, and text descriptions apart with a fine-toothed comb! The pressure! The microscopic attention! TrakFIT leg-loops easily adjust for cool fall days at the crag or blazing summer days on long multi-pitches, and four pressure-molded gear loops and a haul loop make this our most popular all-rounder.Oh, to release a book to the world, suddenly every fevered kook can sequester himself in an attic and critique your every word. A pre-threaded Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle saves time and eliminates error when tying in, while Dual Core Construction puts an emphasis on comfort, even when you’re posted up at a hanging belay. It also features four gear loops, a haul loop and a rear elastic riser.įor all-around climbers who know that time spent fiddling with leg loops and adjusting a pinching waistbelt is time wasted, the Black Diamond Momentum delivers a time-saving design for all styles of climbing. The Dual Core construction keeps bulk and weight down but provides high levels of comfort whilst distributing load equally to avoid pressure points. It has a speed adjust buckle on the waist and trakFIT adjustment on the leg loops for a quick and dialed in fit. The Momentum Harness is an all round harness which can be used for any discipline of rock climbing. The kit includes a Momentum harness, ATC XP belay device, a Rocklock screwgate carabiner, a Mojo chalk bag and a White Gold chalk ball. The Black Diamond Momentum Package is a starter set which includes all the essentials you need to get going in climbing. ![]() **Please Note: The colour of the chalk bag in the Momentum Packages can differ from the image on our website.** ![]()
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